The town of Curral das Freiras sits within a vast, cauldron-shaped depression in the mountainous interior of Madeira. Steep peaks rise on all sides, encircling the valley so completely that the town is almost invisible from the outside world. It is a setting of genuine drama, and one that feels remarkably remote despite being less than an hour from Funchal.

This isolation served a practical purpose in the past. During the 16th century, when pirates raided the island, the nuns of Santa Clara convent in Funchal fled here to escape the violence. The valley proved such an effective hiding place that it took on the name Curral das Freiras, which translates as "Refuge of the Nuns". The town remained cut off from Madeira's road network until 1959, giving some sense of just how inaccessible this place once was.

Today, Curral das Freiras is a popular destination for visitors wanting to experience Madeira's mountainous landscape. I should be clear: the attraction here is the scenery rather than the town itself. There are no major historical sights or museums to visit. What you come for is the views, perhaps a short walk, and a slice of chestnut cake in one of the local cafés.
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Curral das Freiras nestles at the base of towering mountains

The valley is best appreciated from the viewpoints that surround it rather than from within the town itself.

The most popular is the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, located on the southern side of the valley partway up the Pico Serrado mountain at around 1,053 metres. From here, the entire cauldron opens up below you, with the town visible as a small cluster of white buildings at the base of the surrounding peaks. On clear days, the views are extraordinary. Close to this viewpoint is an old trail that descends into the town, offering over 50 twists and turns for those who enjoy hiking.

A second viewpoint, equally impressive in my opinion, is the Miradouro do Paredão to the east of the valley. This is less visited than Eira do Serrado and offers a slightly different perspective on the landscape.

The church in Curral das Freiras

Within the town itself, the main landmark is the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Livramento, a baroque church with a brightly decorated interior. It is worth a brief look if you descend into the valley, but it is not a reason to visit in itself.

Chestnuts and Local Food
The Curral das Freiras valley has a damp microclimate, with mist and cloud frequently settling over the town. These conditions proved ideal for growing sweet chestnuts, and the town became a centre for their cultivation.

Chestnuts remain central to local identity. You will find chestnut cake, chestnut liqueur and various chestnut-based treats sold in the cafés and shops around the main square. An annual Chestnut Festival is held at the end of October, drawing visitors from across the island.

Frequently Curral das Freiras is shrouded in fog or clouds

Curral das Freiras needs only a couple of hours to explore, with most of that time spent at the viewpoints rather than in the town. It combines well with other attractions in central Madeira if you have a full day to spare. To get the most from the area, a rental car or organised tour is recommended.

Travel to Curral das Freiras
From Funchal, you can catch the Number 81 bus, which runs frequently throughout the day. However, a key tip for travelers remains: pay close attention to the bus destination sign. Some "81" buses only go as far as the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, while others go directly to the village floor. If you want to see both, it is often best to take the bus to Eira do Serrado, enjoy the view, and then walk the downhill "Nuns' Path" into the village, where you can catch a return bus from the center.

For those driving, the experience has been modernized but still retains its dramatic flair. Most visitors now enter the valley via the 2,404-meter-long tunnel, which has transformed what was once a terrifying cliff-side crawl into a quick, five-minute transit. If you are a confident driver and the weather is clear, you can still opt for the "Old Road" (ER228) to reach the viewpoints. This road clings to the mountain face and offers white-knuckle vistas, but be aware that local authorities frequently close it during heavy rain or high winds due to the risk of rockfalls.

The town of Curral das Freiras Madeira

For those wanting to explore on foot, the PR2 Vereda do Urzal hiking route begins just north of the valley. This challenging 10km trail follows an ancient path that once connected the south of the island to the north, climbing through the mountains to a maximum altitude of 1,450 metres before descending to the hamlet of Lombo do Urzal on the northern side.

Be aware that all classified hiking routes in Madeira now require advance booking through the official SIMplifica website or app at simplifica.madeira.gov.pt/

This system was introduced to protect the mountain ecosystem and manage visitor numbers. Non-residents pay a conservation fee of €4.50 per person, and you will receive a digital permit with a QR code that rangers may check at trailheads and along the route.

Permits are date-specific, and popular routes can reach capacity during summer months, so I would recommend booking at least a few days in advance. The booking portal also provides real-time updates on trail conditions, which is particularly useful here as the valley's microclimate means weather can differ significantly from conditions on the coast. Always check the status of your route on the morning of your hike, even if Funchal looks perfectly clear.

The valley was known to early settlers on Madeira, but it came to prominence during a devastating pirate raid in 1566. The French pirate Bertrand de Montluc led a violent assault on the island that lasted over 100 days, during which his men caused widespread destruction across Madeira.

The nuns of the Santa Clara convent in Funchal fled to this remote valley to escape the chaos. The location proved so effective as a refuge that the valley was named in their honour: Curral das Freiras, the Refuge of the Nuns.

There is a small footnote to this story. Bertrand de Montluc was injured during the raid and died of his wounds some weeks later. The nuns, one might say, had the last word.