Madeira is a verdant island in the Atlantic Ocean, where steep mountains rise from the sea and subtropical vegetation flourishes in the mild, year round climate. It is one of Europe's most distinctive holiday destinations, offering something quite different from the typical sun and sand resorts found elsewhere.

The island's natural scenery is varied and often dramatic. Volcanic peaks reach almost 1,900 metres, their slopes cloaked in ancient laurel forest and crisscrossed by the famous levada irrigation channels. The coastline is rugged, with towering cliffs giving way to small fishing villages and sheltered harbours.

Madeira is not a conventional beach destination. The island's appeal lies in exploration, whether on foot along mountain trails, by car through timeless villages, or simply wandering the cobbled streets of Funchal discovering its markets and gardens. Equally, Madeira suits those seeking relaxation, with excellent hotels, a pleasant climate throughout the year, and good value compared with many European destinations.

I have been visiting Madeira for over 20 years, and in this guide I will explain why you should consider the island for your next holiday.

 

 

The mountain walk between Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo is one of Europe's most spectacular hiking routes. This ridge trail connects Madeira's third and highest peaks, passing through landscapes that feel almost otherworldly. On clear days you walk above the clouds, with views extending across the entire island.

Funchal, the island's capital, is a charming city of whitewashed buildings, botanical gardens, and a historic harbour. The old town has excellent restaurants and bars, while Monte, reached by cable car, offers the famous wicker toboggan ride back down to the city.

The northern coastline presents the island at its most dramatic. Towering cliffs rise directly from the Atlantic, waterfalls cascade down rock faces into the sea, and rugged headlands absorb the constant force of the waves. The coastal road offers some of Madeira's finest scenery, and I always make time for this drive during my visits.

At the island's northwestern tip, Porto Moniz is known for its natural lava pools. These volcanic rock formations create sheltered areas for swimming, refreshed by each incoming tide. You can float in calm, clear water while watching powerful waves break against the outer rocks just metres away.
Related articles: Funchal guide - Porto Moniz - Pico do Arieiro

Madeira, along with its sister island Porto Santo and the uninhabited Desertas and Selvagens islands, forms an autonomous region of Portugal. The archipelago's volcanic origins have created dramatic landscapes, from the soaring central mountain range to the plunging coastal cliffs.

The island lies closer to mainland Africa (800 km) than to Lisbon (1,200 km), while the Canary Islands sit 400 km to the south. This southern latitude might suggest an island of intense heat and arid terrain, but Madeira defies such expectations. The Atlantic Ocean tempers any temperature extremes, while the mountains capture moisture laden winds, ensuring regular rainfall that keeps the island lush and green.

Average temperatures range from 16°C in winter to 23°C in summer, and Madeira is often referred to as the "island of eternal spring", a description that proves accurate on every visit I have made.

The green and mountainous interior of Madeira

The combination of altitude and Atlantic influences creates distinct microclimates across the island, allowing both tropical and Mediterranean plant species to thrive. The southern coast features banana plantations and vineyards on terraced hillsides, while the northern coast offers dramatic seascapes with waves breaking against volcanic cliffs. The central mountain range, with its peaks often rising above the clouds, is one of Europe's most striking natural environments.

This geographical diversity has shaped not only the island's ecology but also its culture and way of life. The mountainous terrain led to the development of the levada system, a network of irrigation channels constructed from the sixteenth century onwards. These waterways, and the paths that run alongside them, now provide some of Europe's most distinctive hiking trails.
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Madeira appeals to a broad range of travellers, particularly those seeking something beyond a conventional Mediterranean beach holiday. The island rewards visitors who enjoy being active and exploring, though it is equally suited to those simply looking for a peaceful retreat in pleasant surroundings.

Walkers and hikers are particularly well served. The network of levada trails extends for over 2,000 kilometres, offering routes that range from gentle strolls through farmland to challenging mountain paths. The landscapes are varied and often spectacular, taking in ancient laurel forest, dramatic valleys, and high volcanic peaks. I have returned to Madeira several times largely for the walking, and there are still routes I have yet to explore. Beyond hiking, the island offers opportunities for mountain biking, canyoning, coasteering, and paragliding, with the mild climate making outdoor activities viable throughout the year.

Madeira has traditionally attracted an older demographic, drawn by the gentle climate, excellent facilities, and good value compared to many European destinations. However, the island is increasingly popular with younger independent travellers who appreciate the outdoor, its’ adventure activities, and the food scene.

The main consideration for some visitors will be the lack of sandy beaches. If time on the sand is important to you, this can be addressed by combining your stay with a trip to Porto Santo, Madeira's smaller neighbouring island.

Madeira's combination of natural beauty, outdoor activities, cultural interest, and good food makes it well suited to travellers of all ages who want something more than a week by the pool.
Related articles: Top 10 activities in Madeira - Day trip to Porto Santo

Porto Santo is much more arid than Madeira, but there is a beautiful 7km beach

Most visitors to Madeira base themselves in or near Funchal, the island's capital and largest settlement, home to more than half of Madeira's population. This is where you will find the greatest concentration of hotels, restaurants, and tourist facilities, and it serves as a convenient starting point for exploring the rest of the island.

Funchal is an attractive and welcoming city, with a pleasing mixture of traditional Portuguese architecture, whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, and carefully tended gardens filled with subtropical plants. The old town, known as the Zona Velha, has narrow cobbled streets lined with restaurants and bars, while the seafront promenade offers pleasant walks with views across the harbour. The main hotel zone lies to the west of the city centre in the Lido area, and if you book a package holiday, you will most likely be accommodated here.

The historic centre of Funchal is an enjoyable locaction for a holiday

The interior of Madeira is defined by the remnants of massive extinct volcanoes and deep valleys carved out over millennia by rainfall and rivers. The landscape is dramatic and, in places, almost otherworldly. Pico Ruivo stands as the highest point on the island at 1,862 metres, while the third highest peak, Pico do Arieiro, is accessible by road, making it one of the easiest ways to experience Madeira's mountain scenery. On clear days, the views from the summit extend across much of the island.

The deep valleys of the interior provided protection for Madeira's early settlers during the pirate raids that plagued the island for centuries. The most famous of these is Curral das Freiras, the Valley of the Nuns, so named because the nuns of Funchal's Santa Clara convent fled here to escape French pirates in the sixteenth century.

The coastline of Madeira is rugged, characterised by towering cliffs, rocky shores, and small pebbly beaches. Near the fishing village of Câmara de Lobos, the cliffs of Cabo Girão rise to almost 600 metres, making them among the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

On the far northwestern tip of the island, the small town of Porto Moniz is known for its natural lava pools. These rock formations have been shaped by volcanic activity and the constant action of the Atlantic, creating sheltered pools that fill with seawater at high tide.
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The traditional houses of Madeira in Santana

Madeira enjoys a mild subtropical climate throughout the year, which makes it a viable destination in any season. However, certain periods offer distinct advantages depending on what you are looking for from your holiday.

There are two peak seasons: the Christmas and New Year period, when the island is famous for its decorations and fireworks display, and the school summer holidays from July to August. If you are planning to visit during either of these times, I would strongly recommend booking flights and accommodation well in advance. Prices rise considerably, and popular hotels do sell out, particularly those with sea views in Funchal.

Early spring and autumn are, in my experience, the best times to visit. The weather remains warm and pleasant, yet the summer crowds and cruise ship passengers are largely absent. You will find it easier to secure restaurant tables, the levada paths are quieter, and prices for accommodation tend to be more reasonable.

The winter months see the most rainfall, though this is not evenly distributed across the island. The northern slopes, which face the prevailing weather systems, receive considerably more rain than the south. Funchal and the surrounding coast often remain dry and sunny even when clouds gather over the mountains.

Insight: The main festival of Madeira is the Flower Festival, held in Funchal between late April and late May. The city is decorated with elaborate floral displays, and there are parades, exhibitions, and concerts throughout the period.

June is something of an anomaly. The island is frequently covered in low cloud during this month, a phenomenon locals refer to as "June gloom". While it rarely results in heavy rain, the persistent overcast conditions can obscure views and make the mountains less enjoyable to explore. By July, the stronger summer sun typically burns off this cloud by mid morning.

A typical holiday to Madeira is based in or near Funchal, with many of the larger hotels situated to the west of the city in the hotel zone around Lido. From this base, the island can be explored through organised day trips or independently with a rental car.

For those who wish to explore Madeira at their own pace, a rental car offers the greatest flexibility. The island's roads are generally well maintained, though some mountain routes involve steep gradients and tight bends. I would recommend the following seven day itinerary, which covers the main highlights while allowing time to enjoy each area without rushing.

Day 1: Funchal and Monte. Explore the capital's old town, market, and seafront before taking the cable car up to Monte for the botanical gardens and toboggan ride.

Day 2: Câmara de Lobos and the Cabo Girão cliffs. Visit the picturesque fishing village favoured by Winston Churchill, then continue to the dramatic glass skywalk at Cabo Girão, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe.

Day 3: Porto Moniz. Drive along the northern coast to reach the natural lava pools, stopping at viewpoints along the way.

Day 4: Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo. Head into the mountains for some of Madeira's most spectacular scenery. The walk between these two peaks is challenging but rewarding.

Day 5: Ribeiro Frio, Santana, and Machico. Combine a levada walk through the laurel forest at Ribeiro Frio with visits to the traditional thatched houses of Santana and the beach at Machico.

Day 6: Curral das Freiras. Venture into the hidden valley known as the Valley of the Nuns, surrounded by towering peaks on all sides.

Day 7: São Vicente and the volcanic caves. Explore the caves formed by ancient lava flows and the pretty town of São Vicente on the north coast.

A map of this suggested itinerary is shown below.

For those who prefer not to drive, guided tours offer a convenient way to see the island and was how I first saw the island with my wife back in 2008. Several tour companies operate on Madeira, and most divide the island into eastern and western routes.

The western tours typically visit Câmara de Lobos, São Vicente, and Porto Moniz, while the eastern tours include Santana, Ribeiro Frio, and Machico. Full day tours generally cost between €30 and €50 per person and include hotel pickup.
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The powerful waves and strong sea currents around Madeira have prevented the coastline from retaining any substantial sandy beaches. The island's shores are predominantly rocky or pebbly, which may disappoint visitors expecting the long stretches of sand found elsewhere in the Atlantic.

However, this has arguably been beneficial for Madeira. The absence of large sandy beaches has meant the island has avoided the mass tourism and large scale hotel developments that have transformed parts of the Canary Islands. Instead, Madeira has retained much of its traditional character and natural beauty.

The island does have two artificial sandy beaches, located in Calheta on the southwestern coast and Machico in the northeast. Both are protected from ocean currents and winter storms by sea walls, though this means neither beach is particularly large. The sand at both was imported from Morocco. Of the two, I find Calheta the more pleasant, with its calmer waters and nearby cafés, though Machico has a more local atmosphere and is less frequented by tourists.

The Paira do Machico beach is to the northeast of Madeira

If a beach holiday is important to you, consider spending part of your trip on Porto Santo, Madeira's smaller neighbouring island. Porto Santo boasts a nine kilometre stretch of golden sand, and the contrast with Madeira could not be more pronounced. A regular ferry service connects Funchal to Porto Santo, with the crossing taking approximately two and a half hours. The island also has its own small airport with limited services to mainland Portugal and a few other European destinations.

Another option, particularly for those who simply want to relax by the water, is to choose a hotel with a good swimming pool complex. Many of Madeira's hotels have invested considerably in their pool facilities and grounds, and these can provide an equally enjoyable setting for a restful holiday.

My Opinion: Madeira may not offer the abundant beaches of other Atlantic islands, but it compensates with dramatic mountain scenery, rugged coastlines, and culturally rich towns and villages. For many visitors, including myself this combination proves far more memorable than a week spent on the sand.
Related articles: The best sandy beaches of Madeira

One of Madeira's most distinctive features is its network of levadas, irrigation channels that have carried water from the wetter northern slopes to the drier south since the 16th century. These narrow waterways were an ingenious solution to the island's uneven rainfall distribution, and the maintenance paths that run alongside them now form over 2,000 kilometres of walking trails. For many visitors, myself included, walking the levadas is the highlight of any trip to Madeira.

The Levada do Caldeirão Verde provides one of the island's most rewarding walks. This 6.5 kilometre trail winds through UNESCO-protected laurisilva forest, a type of ancient laurel woodland that once covered much of southern Europe but now survives only in a few Atlantic islands. The path leads to a 100 metre waterfall set within a natural amphitheatre of towering cliffs draped in ferns and moss. Along the way, the route passes through several tunnels carved into the mountainside, which adds a sense of adventure to the walk. A torch is essential for these sections.

For those particularly interested in waterfalls, the Levada das 25 Fontes is not to be missed. This popular route leads to a rocky wall from which numerous springs cascade into a pool below. The walk can be combined with the nearby Levada do Risco to create a full day of hiking, and both trails offer fine views across Madeira's central mountains and the deep green valleys below.

The levada walks vary considerably in difficulty. Some are gentle, flat paths suitable for a leisurely afternoon stroll, while others traverse narrow ledges with steep drops and require a good head for heights. I would strongly recommend checking current weather conditions before setting out, as rain can make paths slippery and reduce visibility. Proper walking shoes with good grip are essential, and you should always carry a torch for the tunnels, water, and a light waterproof layer, as conditions can change quickly in the mountains.

Madeira's cuisine reflects its maritime location and mountainous terrain, with dishes that draw on both the sea and the land. The island's traditional recipes make use of fresh local ingredients and cooking methods that have been passed down through generations.

Seafood features prominently in Madeiran cooking. Black scabbard fish (espada) is a local speciality, typically served with fried banana or passion fruit sauce, a combination that may sound unusual but works surprisingly well. I was initially sceptical, but it has become one of my favourite dishes to order when visiting the island. The coastal waters also provide excellent limpets (lapas), which are grilled and served with garlic butter and lemon. These are best enjoyed at one of the small restaurants along the seafront in Câmara de Lobos or Funchal's Zona Velha.

From the mountainous interior comes espetada, tender beef rubbed with garlic and coarse salt, skewered on bay laurel sticks and grilled over hot coals. The laurel imparts a subtle, aromatic flavour to the meat. Espetada is traditionally accompanied by bolo do caco, a soft flatbread made with sweet potato flour and generously spread with garlic butter. This combination is found throughout the island, and many restaurants suspend the skewers from special hooks above the table.

The island's subtropical climate supports a variety of unique fruits, including the small, sweet Madeira banana and passion fruit, both of which appear in desserts and drinks. Bolo de mel, a dense, dark honey cake with warm spices, reflects Madeira's historic involvement in the sugar trade. Tradition dictates that this cake should be broken by hand rather than cut with a knife.

No discussion of Madeiran food would be complete without mentioning poncha, the local drink made from aguardente de cana (sugar cane rum), honey, and fresh fruit juice, most commonly lemon or orange. I find it deceptively strong, so approach with a degree of caution.

A bottle of Poncha ready to make the bar jolly…

In short, no. English is widely spoken throughout Madeira, particularly within the tourism industry, where staff typically speak it fluently along with other European languages such as German or French. Restaurant menus almost always include English translations, and public transport signage and announcements use English as the second language. I have never encountered any significant communication difficulties during my visits to the island.

That said, the Portuguese genuinely appreciate it when visitors make an effort with their language, even if it is just a simple "bom dia" (good morning) or "obrigado/obrigada" (thank you). A few basic phrases can help create a warmer connection with locals.

Madeira may not be the first destination that springs to mind for a family holiday, but it is well suited to those travelling with children. The Portuguese are welcoming towards families, particularly those with young children, and restaurants and hotels tend to be accommodating and helpful.

The island is very safe, tourist facilities are maintained to a high standard, and local shops stock familiar branded goods. In terms of activities, children often enjoy the cable car ride from Funchal up to Monte, and boat tours departing from Funchal marina offer the chance to spot dolphins and whales.

One consideration is that Madeira's beaches are predominantly pebbly or rocky rather than sandy, and the Atlantic waters can be quite cold, even in summer.

Madeira is served by a modern international airport located on the northeastern coast of the island. Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (named after the footballer, who was born in Funchal) handles flights from across Europe, with numerous routes operated by both scheduled and low-cost carriers. If you book well in advance, you can often find excellent deals, particularly outside the peak summer months and Christmas period.

Getting from the airport to Funchal is straightforward. The Aerobus runs a regular service into the city centre, taking around 40 minutes and costing €5.00. I've used this service several times and found it reliable, though it does make multiple stops along the way. If you're in a hurry or travelling with heavy luggage, taxis are readily available outside the arrivals hall, and pre-booked transfers can be arranged through most hotels or online booking platforms.

The run way of Madeira spans a deep valley and extends out over the sea… The approach to Madeira is one of the most stunning in Europe

Insight: Madeira's airport once had a reputation as one of the world's most challenging for pilots, but that changed significantly when the new extended runway was completed in 2002. The original runway was far shorter and required considerable skill to navigate. Today's airport is perfectly safe, though pilots still require additional training due to the potential for crosswinds and the distinctive zigzag approach through the surrounding mountains. I'd advise ignoring any outdated scare stories you might come across online.