The town of Mafra exists in the shadow of a single, colossal monument: the Palácio Nacional de Mafra. This is not merely a palace, but a combined monastery and basilica, with over 1,200 rooms, a 90-metre library guarded by bats, and six pipe organs designed to be played simultaneously.

What began as King João V's solemn vow to build a modest convent for 13 friars spiralled into one of Europe's most extravagant building projects. Fuelled by the immense influx of 18th-century Brazilian gold, the palace grew into a complex so vast that its construction nearly bankrupted the state and required a workforce of up to 25,000 labourers.

A visit leads through a fraction of its 1,200 opulent rooms, from the royal apartments to the magnificent basilica. The undisputed highlight is the spectacular Rococo library, a 90-metre-long hall whose 36,000 ancient books are famously protected from insects by a resident colony of bats.

The palace also holds a poignant place in Portuguese history: it was here that the last king of Portugal spent his final night before fleeing into exile in 1910.

This magnificent building is one of Portugal's most impressive royal palaces. and makes for a fantastic day trip from Lisbon. Mafra lies on the route to Ericeira. a picturesque fishing town with a trendy surfing scene, and the two combine to make an excellent day out from the capital..
This guide covers everything you need to know, from transport options to how best to spend your day.

 

 

The Palácio Nacional de Mafra is the sole attraction, but what a building it is. Highlights within the palace include:
The 90-metre-long Rococo library, regarded as one of the finest in the world, home to 36,000 ancient books protected by a colony of resident bats.

The Basilica, with its ornate Baroque interior and twin bell towers containing 92 bells.

The games room, featuring an elaborate collection of period entertainment, including an early example of a pinball machine.

The palace is the main (and only) tourist attraction in Mafra, and the huge building completely dwarfs the rest of the town. The front façade extends for over 250 metres, while the two bell towers, containing 92 bells, rise 68 metres above the town.

The palace was constructed between 1717 and 1755 and served as both a convent and royal residence. Inside, there are over 1,200 rooms connected by more than 150 flights of stairs, though only a small portion is open to the public. Even so, this "small portion" still involves walking over 1.5km through the staterooms, which gives some sense of the sheer scale of the place.

The sections open to visitors include the convent's infirmary, the royal apartments and the library. All rooms have been carefully restored and contain original furniture, artworks and historical objects, providing a genuine glimpse into 18th-century Portuguese royal life.

The hunting room in the Mafra palace

A visit to the palace typically takes between 90 minutes and two hours, depending on how long you linger in the library. Afterwards, the cafés and restaurants opposite the palace entrance are a good spot for a coffee or lunch before continuing your day.

From Mafra, it is well worth heading to Ericeira for the afternoon. This coastal town is known for its surfing, but also has a pretty harbour and traditional old quarter to explore. Mafra lies on the bus route between Lisbon and Ericeira, so combining the two makes practical sense: visit the palace in the morning, then catch the bus onwards to the coast for the rest of the day.

Those travelling by car could also consider a detour to the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, the former royal hunting grounds which now serve as a nature reserve, located just behind the palace.

Have you considered a small group tour?
An organised tour is a convenient way to visit Mafra, particularly if you prefer not to navigate public transport. Tours in Portugal tend to be of a high standard, with knowledgeable guides, and many combine Mafra with other nearby destinations. A selection of tours that include Mafra:
• Mafra Palace and coastal villages small group tour
• Queluz, Mafra, Azenhas do Mar - private tour
• Mafra and Ericeira - private tour

The entrance fee to the Palácio de Mafra is €15.00 for adults and free for children under 12. The palace is open from 09:30 to 17:30 (last entrance at 16:30), Wednesday to Monday.

Please note that the palace is closed on Tuesdays. This is unique for Portugal, as most government-run tourist attractions are closed on Mondays, making Mafra a great alternative if you are looking for things to do at the start of the week.

A typical visit lasts about 90 minutes and involves a significant amount of walking. Descriptions in each room are provided in both Portuguese and English, and a detailed leaflet guide can be purchased at the entrance for €1.00.

The Palácio de Mafra was constructed by King João V (1689–1750) as a religious offering in thanks for having a healthy heir.

The king had been married to Queen Maria Ana for three years without producing a healthy child, so he vowed to build a great monastery on the site of an ancient Mafra convent if he was granted an heir. His prayers were answered with the birth of María Bárbara (later Queen of Spain), and the couple went on to have a further six children.

The palace was funded by the immense wealth flowing from Portugal's 18th-century colonies, particularly Brazilian gold. Even so, the scale of the project almost bankrupted the state.

King John’s bedroom in the palace

A construction site the size of a city Building the palace was a monumental feat of logistics. For much of the 40-year project, an average of 15,000 workers lived on site, with this number reaching 25,000 at the peak of construction. To maintain order among such a vast workforce, nearly 8,000 soldiers, roughly one tenth of the entire Portuguese army, were permanently stationed there.

From humble vow to golden excess The project began as a modest promise to build a convent for just 13 Capuchin friars. However, as gold from Brazil filled the royal coffers, King João V's ambitions expanded accordingly. The final complex ended up large enough to house 330 friars, alongside the entire royal court.

The 220-metre commute The palace layout is defined by two towers: the King's tower at the north end and the Queen's tower at the south, separated by 220 metres of corridor. This was a deliberate design to provide the royal couple with total privacy. To save them from walking the length of the building for daily prayer, a central room allowed them to observe mass in the Basilica without leaving their private quarters.

The Queen's tower of the palace

The world's smallest librarians The Rococo library is famous for its beauty, but its most useful residents are a colony of small bats. These creatures live behind the bookshelves during the day and are released at night to hunt. They can eat twice their weight in insects, providing natural pest control that has protected the 36,000 leather-bound books for over three centuries.

The double bell towers When King João V ordered a carillon from Flanders, the craftsmen were reportedly shocked by the cost and questioned whether Portugal could afford it. Offended by their doubt, the King is said to have replied: "I didn't realise they were so cheap. I would like two sets." As a result, Mafra has two bell towers containing 92 bells, one of the largest historical carillon systems in the world.

Six organs played as one The Basilica contains six pipe organs that were specifically designed and tuned to be played simultaneously. During royal ceremonies, the sound of all six echoing through the marble interior was intended to overwhelm and inspire. The organs have recently been restored, and concerts are occasionally held where all six are played together.

Spiritual healing in the infirmary The layout of the infirmary was designed so that every bed faced the altar at the end of the hall, allowing ill monks to participate in mass without having to leave their beds.

All the beds in the infirmary face the altar so the ill monks could attend mass while in bed

The Trophy Room As the palace served as a royal hunting lodge, it includes a dedicated Trophy Room. The furniture here is constructed from the antlers and skins of deer hunted in the surrounding royal grounds.

The end of the monarchy On 4 October 1910, King Manuel II spent his final night in Portugal at the Palácio de Mafra before fleeing to the coast at Ericeira to board a ship into exile. The palace thus marks the setting for the end of the Portuguese monarchy.

The palace is the main attraction, and there are few other sights in the town itself.

To the rear of the palace lie the Jardim do Cerco gardens, offering formal gardens and shaded woodland walks. Beyond the gardens is the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, the former royal hunting grounds which now serve as a nature reserve with walking trails and wildlife.

The town centre of Mafra is pleasant and relaxed, with a good selection of restaurants and cafés. It is a nice spot for lunch before or after visiting the palace.

Mafra has a pleasant, relaxed town centre

Sintra is the standout day trip in the Lisbon region and should be prioritised if this is your first visit. Óbidos is a pretty walled town, though smaller and quicker to explore than Sintra.

Both Sintra and Óbidos can become uncomfortably crowded during the summer months, particularly with coach tours. Mafra and Ericeira offer a quieter alternative while still being easy to reach from Lisbon.

A suggested order for day trips from Lisbon: Sintra, Cascais, Óbidos, Mafra, then Setúbal. Those with a rental car could also consider Sesimbra and the Serra da Arrábida.
Related articles: Sintra guide - Obidos guide

Lisbon is connected to Mafra by a regular and inexpensive bus service, operated by Carris Metropolitana. Buses depart from Campo Grande bus station, which is served by the green and yellow metro lines.

The bus terminates at Ericeira, so look for "Ericeira" on the front of the bus. The journey to Mafra takes around 40 minutes. Tickets can be purchased from the driver when boarding and cost €4.50 for adults, €2.25 for children, or €9.00 return. The latest timetable can be found on the Carris Metropolitana website:
www.carrismetropolitana.pt/

For those driving, there is a large free car park to the south of the palace.

The Carris Metropolitana bus at Campo Grande bus station, Lisbon

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