In 1666, twenty Portuguese soldiers held the Berlengas against sixteen Spanish warships and more than two thousand men. They only surrendered when the ammunition ran out, and by then they had killed five hundred of the attackers for the loss of a single defender. Stand on the ramparts of the São João Baptista fort today and you will understand how they did it. The sea smashes against granite cliffs on every side, the fort sits on its own outcrop connected to the island by nothing more than a narrow stone causeway, and the Atlantic stretches empty to the horizon.

The Berlengas archipelago lies ten kilometres off the coast of Peniche, a handful of granite islands rising straight out of the ocean. The largest of them, Berlenga Grande, is the only one you can visit, and it is one of the most unusual day trips in Portugal. You will find a 17th-century fort, a marine nature reserve with water clear enough for snorkelling, sea caves that the boats duck into, and a lighthouse at the highest point of the island that runs entirely on solar power. The island is small, you can walk its main trail in a couple of hours, but the sense of remoteness stays with you long after the ferry has carried you back to the mainland.

One of the highlights for me is the small boat tour that circles the island from the harbour. For thirty minutes you weave along the base of the cliffs, ducking into the blue cave, passing through the Furado Grande, a natural sixty-metre tunnel chiselled straight through the rock by winter storms, and drifting past Elephant Rock and the wild Ponta da França headland. It is the best way to see the island from the angle that shaped it, from the sea itself.

 

 

The Berlengas Islands are a destination for anyone who loves the raw beauty of nature, from the windswept clifftops to the sea-eroded caves and arches, and the thrill of crossing the open Atlantic with its great rolling swells. It is not a trip for everyone, but if, like me, you take pleasure in the sheer power of nature, this will be one of the most memorable day trips of your time in Portugal.

I have been exploring Portugal since 2001 and, together with my Portuguese wife, I have made the crossing to the Berlengas many times over the years, in calm summer seas and in the choppier shoulder seasons when the boats do not always sail. This guide shares what we have learned, so you can decide whether the trip is right for you, choose the best way to get there, and make the most of your time on the island once you arrive.
Related articles: Peniche tourist guide

As a tourist, it is possible to visit the largest of the Berlengas Islands, Berlenga Grande, as a day trip from Peniche.

A typical day trip to Berlenga Grande includes a boat tour of the cliff formations, a visit to the São João Baptista fort, a hike through the island's interior, bird watching, snorkelling, and opportunities for relaxing on the beach. Departing from the harbour in Berlenga Grande are glass-bottomed boat tours, which explore the caves, grottos, and view the extensive marine life.

The ferry ride from Peniche to Berlenga Grande is also very scenic, as the route follows the craggy Peniche coastline, and passes the Cape Carvoeiro headland and the Nau dos Corvos rock formation.

The day trip to Berlenga Grande is considered as one of the highlights of the Peniche region, and should be visited if you get the opportunity.
Warning: The Berlengas Islands are exposed to the huge waves of the Atlantic Ocean. This is not a recommended day trip if you are prone to seasickness.

It is only possible to travel to the Berlengas Islands via a boat tour or ferry, some of the best tours provided by GetYourGuide include:
• Day tour to the Berlengas islands from Lisbon including kayaking and snorkelling
• Berlengas Islands day trip departing from Peniche harbour
• Sightseeing Tour of Berlenga Grande – from Lisbon

Below is an interactive map for a typical day trip to Berlenga Grande.
The yellow route shows the common tourist trail (3.8km) which begins at the harbour, visits the São João Baptista Fort, the Cova do Sono viewpoint, the lighthouse and the Praia do Carreiro do Mosteiro beach. The green line is the Ilha Velha footpath (1.4km), which hikes around the much quiet northern side of the island. The blue line is the route of the small boat tours and the blue pins mark the prominent coastal features.

Key to Yellow tour: 1) Harbour 2) Forte de São João Baptista 3) Old Cisterns 4) Cova do Sono Viewpoint 5) Lighthouse 6) The Fishing village 7) Carreiro do Mosteiro beach
Boat tour 1) Greta da Inês rocks 2) Búzios grotto 3) Blue cave 4) Whale rock 5) Furado Grande (65m long natural tunnel) 6) Elephant Rock 7) Cova do Sono 8) Ponta da França headland.

There is a restaurant on the island (the Mar and Sol), but it is always advisable to bring your own water and food, as it can get busy during peak months. Berlenga Grande is part of the Arquipélago das Berlengas Nature Reserve, so visitors are encouraged to only follow the set paths, and not cause damage by wandering into the protected areas.

A day trip to Berlenga Grande is only suitable for physically fit and mobile visitors, as some of the footpaths are very worn and there are lots of hills to climb.

All of the ferries to the Berlengas Islands depart from Peniche harbour, and along the harbour walkway are the ticket offices for all of the tour companies. A standard ferry journey takes 45 minutes, and a return ticket costs €20 (€12 for one way). The more exciting and faster speedboat costs €23 for a return, with the journey time is reduced to just 20 minutes. Berlenga Grande is the only island with a sheltered harbour and allows visitors.

Top Tip: When departing from Peniche, sit on the right side of the boat, as this side faces the dramatic cliffs of the Peniche headland.

There are multiple tour companies with regular boat services to Berlenga Grande, and a selection of the companies include:
https://viamar-berlenga.com/en/tickets/
http://www.feelingberlenga.pt/en/
https://julius-berlenga.com.pt/viagem/
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During the summer, always book tickets in advance or early in the day, as the trips are very popular and there is a limited number of seats on the boats. In the autumn and spring, there can be frequent cancellations due to the weather, and in the winter many tour companies close for the entire season.

The São João Baptista Fort lies on the sheltered side of the Berlenga Grande and was constructed in the 17th century to prevent a staging area for seaborne assault along the western coastline of Portugal.

This little fort is one of the most visually striking buildings in Portugal, rising up from the shallow turquoise sea waters and connected to the island by narrow arched bridges.

The defensive prowess of this seemingly tranquil setting was best demonstrated in June 1666, when just twenty soldiers withstood a siege by 16 Spanish warships and over 2,000 men. The fort was only abandoned when its stock of ammunition was exhausted, but the attack cost the lives of 500 Spanish sailors compared to just one Portuguese soldier who died.

Today, the historic fort has been transformed into a hostel and is open to the public to explore. As one of the most atmospheric locations to stay in Portugal, it is an absolute bargain at €22/€20 (high/low season) per night; just don't expect many modern comforts.

Tourists, please note: Many pictures of the São João Baptista fort on the internet have been extremely enhanced, to such an extent that they are almost fake. Please do not be disappointed if the bright orange fort surrounded by turquoise waters is not what you find.

The beach itself is named after the 16th-century monastery, which was situated above the harbour and has now been converted into a restaurant. The stones from the abandoned monastery were used to construct the São João Baptista Fort.