Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean on the western coast of Portugal is Peniche, a major fishing town that is now a favourite with surfers due to the region’s magnificent beaches.

Tourism may be slowly transforming Peniche, but it is still primarily a hard-working fishing town, which is reflected in its raw and ramshackle appearance. There is a lot to love when you look beyond its shabby exterior, including fantastic seafood restaurants, intriguing historical sights, and, of course, the incredible surfing.

Once through the town walls and away from the multitude of warehouses and industrial units that seem to lay siege to Peniche, there is a characterful and authentically Portuguese town to discover. Sights include the imposing Fortaleza de Peniche, with its dark history as a political prison; the charming fishing quarter around the Rua das Arribas do Mar, and the dramatic natural scenery of the Cabo Carvoeiro at the far western side of the peninsula.

The non-touristy atmosphere and unkempt appearance of Peniche means it may not appeal to everyone, but if you are seeking a genuine, modern-day Portugal then you will adore it.

One of the highlights of Peniche is the Berlengas Islands, Portugal’s oldest nature reserve and the location of the spectacular Sao Joao Baptista fort. The islands can be explored as a day trip from the town, with tour boats departing from the harbour.

This article will provide a guide to Peniche for both a day trip or a longer stay, helping you make the most of your time here.

 

 

The Estrada Marginal Norte - The wind-blasted road that skirts the northern and western sides of the Peniche Peninsula, passing jagged cliffs, raging seas and spectacular natural scenery, before ending at the Miradouro Cabo Carvoeiro viewpoint.

The Miradouro da Cruz dos Remédios viewpoint.

Peniche’s seafood restaurants - Serving the fresh catch from the town’s fishing fleet. There are many excellent restaurants, all grouped together along Avenida do Mar, and some of the best include A Sardinha, O Pedro, O Popular, O Oceanário and Onda Azul. To see the fish fresh after being caught, head to Mercado Municipal Market early in the morning.

Surfing - Whether you choose the Supertubos beach, north Praia Baleal beach or south Praia Baleal beach, you will have one of your best surfing days ever. Powerful swells, sandy beaches and ample space combine to create a truly amazing experience. Post-surfing, the town offers inexpensive restaurants, sociable bars and many like-minded people to meet.

The fishermen’s quarter - Traditional fishermen’s houses perch above the cliffs to the north of the fishing harbour. Sheltered from the strong winds, these tiny houses provided views over the ocean so that fishermen’s wives could watch for the safe return of their loved ones.

The cliffside path of the Rua da Falésia

There are many enjoyable and exciting activities within the Peniche region, some of the best offered by GetYourGuide include:
• Day tour to the Berlengas islands from Lisbon including kayaking and snorkelling
• Speed boat tour of the Cabo Carvoeiro from Peniche harbour
• Dolphin watching tour from Peniche

Peniche is not commonly regarded as a destination for a day trip from Lisbon, but there is a surprising amount to see and do. If you are based in Lisbon and have a car, it could be easily combined with a trip to Óbidos or Nazaré. Equally, if you are on holiday or touring through the Óbidos/Nazaré/Ericeira region, Peniche makes for an enjoyable visit.

The town takes around three hours to fully discover and is a good destination to combine with a visit to Óbidos (24km away), which takes a similar time to explore.

Peniche is much less famous than surrounding towns, such as Óbidos, Nazaré, Fatima, Batalha or Tomar, but this can be a blessing in the summer when there are fewer tourists in the town centre.

If you are planning a full day in Peniche, a visit can be easily extended by visiting the Cabo Carvoeiro headland and the pretty village of Baleal. During the summer, a popular option is a half-day excursion to the Berlengas Islands, with ferries and tours departing from Peniche harbour.

Our opinion: Peniche has a very similar appeal and atmosphere as the towns of Setubal, Olhão, and Viana do Castelo. If you enjoyed any of them, you will like Peniche.

Below is an interactive map of Peniche, which includes a suggested walking tour and major sights of the region. The yellow line is the walking tour, which begins and ends at the bus station and covers 7.8km. The green line is the scenic coastal hike to Cabo Carvoeiro. This route is 7.3km and is best walked in an anti-clockwise direction. (Note: zoom in or out to see all of the points).

Walking tour (yellow): 1) Fishing harbour (and boats to Berlenga Grande) 2) Peniche fort 3) Peniche museum 4) Fishing quarter 5) São Pedro church 6) Handicraft museum 7) City Hall 8) Misericórdia church 9) Baluarte garden 10) Peniche market 11) Gambôa beach
Sights of the Peniche region (green): 13) Baleal village 14) Baleal beach 15) Cova da Alfarroba beach 16) Papoa Island 17) Nossa Senhora dos Remédios and Cruz dos Remédios viewpoint 18) Cabo Carvoeiro 19) Nau dos Corvos 20) Supertubos beach

The Baroque Igreja de São Pedro is the main church of Peniche

The Miradouro do Carreiro de São Marcos viewpoint, overlooking the fishing quarter.

The Berlengas Islands are a series of windswept and barren islands located 10km to the west of Peniche. These islands are battered by raging seas and ceaseless winds but are a haven for bird and marine wildlife.

The islands are a protected nature park, and Berlenga Grande - the largest of the islands - is the only one that tourists are allowed to visit.

Berlenga Grande offers a dramatic coastline of caves, grottos and cliff formations carved out by the powerful ocean waves. On the sheltered side of the island is a small fishing community and the Praia da Berlenga beach, perched between the jagged cliffs. Further around the coastline is Forte de São João Baptista, a 17th-century fort that clings to a rocky outcrop and is reached via precarious stone bridges.

Historical insight: A monastery was originally constructed on Berlenga Grande to rescue sailors whose ships were wrecked on the islands. The monastery was abandoned due to constant pirate attacks, but the stones were re-used to build the Forte de São João Baptista.

A trip to Berlenga Grande typically takes three hours, including the 20-minute speed boat ride to and from the island. On the island, the usual route is to follow the cliff-top path from the harbour to explore the Forte de São João Baptista, before returning to the harbour and relaxing on Praia da Berlenga beach. The waters of this beach are very clear and great for snorkelling, so bring swimming gear and a towel.

Often, a trip to Berlenga Grande also includes a small boat tour of the cliffs and rock formations of the coastline.

Insight: Due to the rough seas, the ferries and tours to the Berlengas Islands only operate between May and September.
Related articles: A day trip to Berlenga Grande

The Fort of São João Baptista

The harbour on Berlenga Grande, busy with summertime tour boats and tourists

Surfing is the reason why most visitors stay longer in Peniche, and is often the main draw in the first place.

The region is blessed with multiple sandy beaches that face different directions, meaning there is always a beach with decent swell or waves suitable to your ability.

To the south of Peniche is the Praia do Medão, but it is often referred to as Supertubos Beach, as magnificent tube waves up to three metres high can be formed under the right weather conditions. To the north of Peniche is the Praia de Baleal, a favourite with seasoned surfers, while the village of Baleal is a popular surfing hangout.

The sandy beaches of Peniche also mean it is a popular destination to learn how to surf at one of the many surf schools. The region is great for a surfing holiday, with inexpensive food, accommodation, and a relaxed surfing vibe.

For surf rentals, Surf Stash (surfstash.pt/rent/) will deliver to your accommodation and offers some of the best rates, with boards from €16 and wetsuits €5 for a one-day hire. Other recommended surf rentals include Surf Taxi Peniche (surftaxipeniche.com/), or if you are based in Baleal, there is Surf Castle (www.surfcastle.com/)

Peniche offers a wide variety of accommodation, from budget-friendly hostels and characterful guest houses through to modern hotels. It should be noted that there are no four or five-star hotels in Peniche.

The accommodation is spread between three main areas: within the town, around Baleal and along the beaches. Within Peniche are many characterful guest houses and apartments, while the larger hotel complexes - with their pools and extensive facilities - are situated along beach areas. The pretty village of Baleal, 3km north of Peniche, is a popular alternative during the summer.

Insight: Due to the ongoing housing issues in popular tourist areas throughout Portugal, we cannot recommend rental apartments in any residential areas of Peniche. The problem stems from investors purchasing houses and apartments for short-term rentals, which pushes up rents and makes house ownership unachievable for locals. If you are a tourist, please stay in a hotel, guest house or hostel.

There is plenty of choice, with over 45 different accommodation options available, but the best will sell out during the peak season. The largest and best hotel in Peniche is the three-star MH Peniche (link opens new tab), conveniently located within walking distance of Cova da Alfarroba beach and the town centre. Just in front of the MH Peniche is the Star Inn, which is slightly cheaper but makes a very good alternative.

Often, the best accommodation in Portugal is found in the family-run guest houses that are cherished and loved by their owners. The best examples of this in Peniche are Pillows Peniche and Ó da Casa, but as both only have a few rooms, they will sell out. Other good guest houses include the O Forte Guest House, Capital Boutique Bed and Breakfast and White Guest House.

For cheaper hostels with dorm rooms and shared bathrooms, highly recommended options include WOT Peniche in the centre of Peniche or Supertubos Beach Hostel, situated on the peaceful southern side of Supertubos Beach.

We have worked with Booking.com for the past seven years, and the map below displays the best hotels and accommodation in Peniche. If you adjust the dates to suit your holiday, it will display current prices and availability.

Booking.com

If the map does not load, the list of the best hotels can be seen here.

Insight: Many hotels offer free cancellation, and this can be a good tactic for securing a low-priced room, while allowing you to browse other options up until your holiday.

The MH Peniche

To get the most from the Peniche region, a rental car is highly recommended. For a day trip here, there is a large free car park just outside of the city walls at GPS: 39.357, -9.376 (link to Google maps).

If you are reliant on public transport, there are three bus companies offering routes from Lisbon to Peniche, but annoyingly they each depart from a different bus station in the city.

Rodotejo - This regional bus company provides express bus services between Lisbon and Peniche via the ‘Rapida Azul’ route, departing from Campo Grande. The journey takes 1 hour and 25 minutes and costs €9.85. This is the best option Monday to Friday, but at the weekend there are only three departures. www. rodotejo .pt/

Rede Expressos - The national coach operator of Portugal offers express services that depart from Sete Rios bus station. This is a better option at the weekend. Rede Expressos use dynamic pricing, which varies on demand, so expect it to be high at the weekends. www. rede-expressos.pt/

FlixBus - A low-cost bus operator that always has the lowest fares. FlixBus services depart from Oriente bus station, but their services will be very popular and sell out during the summer. FlixBus

Peniche bus station is located in the middle of the warehouse area (GPS 39.360, -9.375) and is not the most scenic location to begin a holiday or day trip from. From the bus station it is a five-minute walk to the city walls or 10 minutes to the harbour. The ticket office and waiting room complex is shut at weekends.

The Parque do Baluarte garden and the Rendilheira statue

The Cabo Carvoeiro is one of the most westerly points of mainland Europe, and the powerful lighthouse here indicates the danger it once posed to shipping. At the tip of the bleak headland is a distinctive rock formation called the Nau dos Corvos. The Cabo Carvoeiro is a popular and romantic setting where you can watch the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.

A scenic hiking trail or bike ride of 7km follows the coastal road around the western edge of the Peniche peninsula. The route starts from the northern side of Peniche on the Estrada Marginal Norte, passing the Cruz dos Remédios viewpoint and Santuario de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios before reaching the lighthouse and Nau dos Corvos. For the return, follow the Estrada Marginal Sul, which passes jagged cliffs and the pretty, sheltered beaches of the southern coastline.

Insight: The Peniche peninsula dates from the early Jurassic period (183 million years ago) and is much older than the rest of mainland Portugal. Peniche was originally an island and was connected to the mainland over millennia by siltation and oceanic forces. This is why the peninsula appears so different from the rest of the region’s coastline.

The windswept Cabo Carvoeiro headland and lighthouse

The Nau dos Corvos rock formation battered by the fierce Atlantic Ocean waves

The Fortaleza de Peniche (Peniche Fortress) is a massive 16th-century fortification that was designed to protect the coastal region from naval attacks and piracy. It sits on a rocky peninsula above the sheltered fishing harbour and follows a polygonal shape with solid walls, bastions and towers. The fortress boasts a dry moat, drawbridges and intricate systems of tunnels and passages, further enhancing its defensive capabilities.

During its long history, the Fortaleza de Peniche served as a military garrison, a prison for political dissidents, and even a site for executions. The fort was notorious during the ‘Estado Novo’ dictatorship (1932 to 1974), as it was used as a political prison.

Today, it stands as an outstanding example of Renaissance military architecture, while inside is the sombre Museu Municipal de Peniche, detailing the infamous history of the complex. Here you can visit the former prison cells, prison yard and learn about the plight of the prisoners.

Full details can be found on the Museu Nacional Resistência e Liberdade website: www.museunacionalresistencialiberdade-peniche.gov.pt

The only entrance into the fort crosses a dry moat

The inner defensive building of the fort

The average day time maximum and the nighttime minimum temperature for Peniche

The average hours of sunshine per day and monthly rainfall (in mm)

Peniche’s weather is highly influenced and moderated by the Atlantic Ocean, which surrounds it on three sides. It has the smallest temperature variation between the summer highs and winter lows of any Portuguese city.

It is a popular destination with foreigners and Portuguese alike. During the summer season, the beaches will be busy, and the town will have a lively atmosphere. The surfing swells are at their best during the autumn months, and this is when most surfers head to Peniche.

Boat tours to the Berlengas Islands stop in the early autumn and resume in the spring due to the rough seas. Late spring is a great time to visit, when the weather is warm and bright and the town is without the summertime crowds.

Peniche, Nazaré and Ericeira are three popular beach towns along the Silver Coastline, each being famous for surfing and unique in its own way. Nazaré is famed for the colossal 30m high waves that form during winter, while in summer it is a popular holiday destination. Ericeira is a charming fishing town and the centre for surfing in Portugal, with its numerous beaches creating the World Surfing Reserve.

Ericeira is the most charming of the three, Nazare is the most lively during the summer, and Peniche is the least touristy. If you are visiting purely for surfing, then either choose Peniche or Ericeira.
Peniche is the only location with tour boats heading to the Berlengas Islands.
Related articles: Nazaré guide - Ericeira guide

The vast beach at Nazaré

Peniche is situated on a rocky peninsula, surround by steep craggy cliffs. The beaches of the region extend in the two sweeping bays to the north and south of the Peniche peninsula.

The seas near Peniche are very powerful, if you are holidaying with children, consider the sheltered lagoon beach at Foz do Arelho (17km to the north). An alternative destination is the unique sheltered cove at São Martinho do Porto (25km north of Peniche).

Central Portugal has many varied and fascinating destinations which could be either visited as day trips, or if you are on a touring holiday after Peniche.

The best day trips are to the walled town of Obidos, and the charming beach town of Nazaré. The Lagoa de Óbidos offers beautiful natural scenery and a great beach at Foz do Arelho. Caldas da Rainha is an authentic Portuguese town but is often overlooked by most tourists.

For a touring holiday, Tomar or Nazaré are good choices for night stops when heading north or towards Coimbra. While going south there is Ericeira and Mafra, but most of this region can be explored as day trip from Lisbon.
Related Articles: Obidos guide – Nazaré guide - Tomar guide – Day trips from Lisbon

Tomar was the home of the Knights Templar and the Convento de Cristo was their fortified church

Obidos is a delightful walled town close to Peniche

The length of stay in Peniche greatly depends on how much time is going to be spent on the beaches or surfing in the sea.

The historic area of Peniche, including the harbour and fort, takes around half a day to explore while a full day is needed to visit the Berlengas islands.
If you are touring the region, then two days is sufficient for Peniche, but if you are here to surf or for the beaches you will want to stay much longer…

The lifeboat station in Peniche

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