December in Portugal offers two distinct experiences, and which one you get depends entirely on when you arrive.

The first two weeks are quietly wonderful. Tourist numbers are at their lowest, flights are cheap, luxury hotels offer their most competitive rates, and the major sights are genuinely deserted. The weather can be wet, particularly in the north, but the Algarve stays mild enough for hiking the coastal trails, cycling, or a round of golf at Vilamoura without the summer crowds. For sightseeing and touring, early December is one of the most underrated times to visit.

From mid-December the mood shifts entirely. Portugal embraces Christmas with genuine enthusiasm, and the cities come alive in a way that has nothing of the grey gloom of Northern Europe. Lisbon and Porto fill with festive markets, bustling shopping streets, and a vibrance that makes December genuinely enjoyable. This is the month I stay close to Lisbon, and the city's Christmas atmosphere is one of the things I look forward to most each year.

 

 

The Algarve follows the same pattern. The quiet of early December gives way to a buzzing holiday atmosphere as Christmas approaches, and the larger towns of Albufeira and Lagos are the places to be. Visitor numbers between December 23rd and New Year rival those of June, and the New Year celebrations in Albufeira are the best in the country.

I have been exploring Portugal with my Portuguese wife since 2001 and December remains one of the most surprising months to visit. Get the timing right and you will find either a peaceful, uncrowded country at bargain prices, or a festive atmosphere that puts most of Northern Europe to shame.

The Algarve will be peaceful and relaxing in December

The Rossio Christmas market in Lisbon

December is the coolest and wettest month in Portugal, but here is the thing: even at its worst, the weather is still some of the best you will find anywhere in mainland Europe. That said, conditions do vary quite a bit depending on where you are heading, so it is worth knowing what to expect. I tend to think of Portugal's December weather as falling into three broad areas:

• Porto and Northern Portugal: Cool days, chilly nights, and the possibility of some very wet weather.
• The Algarve: Mild and mostly dry, with a pleasant mix of grey days and bright, sunny ones, and very little rain.
• Lisbon and Central Portugal: A somewhat unpredictable blend of sunny spells and greyer days, with some wet days mixed in.

Of the three, the Algarve has the best of it in December. You can expect plenty of sunshine and mild temperatures that reach up to 18°C. It is not quite warm enough for sunbathing or long days on the beach, but it is genuinely lovely for sightseeing and getting outdoors.

The north of Portugal is a different story. Moisture-laden winds rolling in from the Atlantic can bring heavy rain over the hilly interior, and Porto itself can feel quite chilly, with daytime temperatures topping out at around 14°C.

Lisbon sits somewhere in between. Expect cool but manageable temperatures, with daytime highs of around 16°C dropping to about 8°C at night, and considerably less rain than you would get further north. At this weather I’m walking round with a jumper and jacket during the day and with an extra layer on at night which can be chilly and windy.

One tip worth keeping in mind: the far eastern side of Portugal, close to the Spanish border, tends to be much drier than the western coastline, and it can make for a fantastic and often overlooked holiday destination.

If you are planning a holiday to Portugal in December, I would recommend heading to Lisbon or one of the larger towns of the Algarve, such as Lagos, Albufeira, or Vilamoura.

Lisbon is my top pick for a December holiday. It offers plenty to keep you busy if the weather turns, and it is also home to Portugal's largest Christmas markets, which are well worth experiencing.

The Algarve has a very different feel in December. For the first two weeks of the month, it will be noticeably quiet, only starting to come alive from around the 22nd. You will find nightlife and a lively atmosphere in Albufeira over the Christmas period, but do not expect anything close to the buzz of peak summer.

December is actually a fantastic time of year for a touring holiday around Portugal. The weather is ideal for exploring, the popular tourist spots are refreshingly free of crowds, and you can find significant savings on accommodation outside of Christmas week itself.
Here are some of my favourite itineraries for a December holiday:

1) Tour of the Algarve - Faro (1 night), Tavira (2 nights), Albufeira or Vilamoura (2 nights), and Lagos (3 nights, with a day trip to Silves).

2) One week in Lisbon - Three days exploring Lisbon, plus day trips to Sintra, Cascais, Setúbal, Sesimbra, Évora, and Óbidos.

3) Central and eastern Portugal – Lisbon (2 nights), Évora (1 night), Elvas (1 night), Marvão or Castelo de Vide (1 night), then Monsanto and Almeida (2 nights), taking in the surrounding areas of Trancoso, Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, and Marialva. From there, you can drive back to Lisbon via Viseu and Coimbra.

4) The Alentejo coastline – Lisbon (2 nights), Setúbal (1 night, with a day trip to the Serra da Arrábida), then a scenic drive through Comporta to Vila Nova de Milfontes (2 nights) or Porto Covo, continuing through Odeceixe and on to Sagres (1 night) and Lagos (2 nights). Bear in mind that you will need a car for this route, and good weather really does make a difference when it comes to appreciating all of that stunning scenery.

The interactive map below shows all four of these tours. The green line shows the one-week Lisbon holiday, the blue line covers the Algarve tour, the yellow line traces the East Portugal route, and the red line follows the Alentejo coastline. (Note: zoom in to see all of the points.)

Algarve tour (blue) 1) Faro 2) Tavira 3) Albufeira 4) Vilamoura 5) Lagos
1 week in Lisbon (green) 6) Lisbon 7) Sintra 8) Cascais 9) Setubal 10) Obidos
East Portugal tour (yellow) 6) Lisbon 11) Evora 12) Elvas 13) Marvão 14) Monsanto 15) Serra da Estrela 16) Almeida
Alentejo coastline tour (red) 6) Lisbon 9) Setubal 17) Comporta 18) Vila Nova de Milfontes 19) Odeceixe 20) Sagres

One of the best pieces of advice I can give you for a December trip to Portugal is to keep your plans flexible. Being able to adapt your itinerary around the weather can make a real difference to your trip.

When you are sightseeing in cities, it is worth having a mix of indoor and outdoor activities in mind for each day. That way, if the weather turns, you are not left scrambling for something to do. A loose, adaptable itinerary will serve you much better than a rigid schedule.

The other good news is that December is low season, which means there is simply no need to pre-book tours, tickets, or accommodation. It is far better to arrive with a list of places and experiences you are keen to explore, and let the weather guide you. The one exception to this is the Christmas and New Year period: if you are travelling between the 23rd of December and the 2nd of January, I would strongly recommend booking your accommodation in advance, as demand is noticeably higher during that window.

My advice: Portugal is a relatively small country with an excellent express train network. If the weather turns poor in Lisbon, you can be in the Algarve in as little as 2.5 hours. Equally, if you wake up to sunshine and want to make the most of it further north, Lisbon to Porto is just 3 hours by train. That kind of flexibility can genuinely transform a December trip.

The Praia de Dona Ana beach, in the Algarve, on a sunny winter's day

Christmas is a truly special time of year to be in Portugal. The Portuguese absolutely adore the festive season, and the cities come alive in the build-up to Christmas, blending deep religious traditions with unique cultural touches that make it feel quite different from Christmas elsewhere in Europe.

The Christmas season officially kicks off on the 8th of December with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. This is when the Christmas markets open in Lisbon and Porto, along with smaller markets in most larger cities. Both cities take on a wonderful energy at this time of year, with busy shopping streets, vibrant nightlife, and festive decorations lighting up the historic neighbourhoods. If you only visit one Christmas market, make it Lisbon's Winter Wonderland in Eduardo VII Park, which is the largest in Portugal and a real highlight of the festive calendar.

On Christmas Eve, families gather for "Consoada," a special celebratory dinner that traditionally features bacalhau (salted cod) alongside sweet treats such as "bolo rei" (king cake). At midnight, many Portuguese attend "Missa do Galo" (Rooster's Mass), and children often stay up to open their presents at the stroke of midnight too. Christmas Day itself is a public holiday, so most tourist attractions and shops will be closed. If you are planning to eat out on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, I would strongly recommend making restaurant reservations well in advance, as many places will be shut and those that do open tend to fill up quickly. One thing worth noting is that Boxing Day (the 26th of December) is not a public holiday in Portugal, so most businesses return to normal that day.

The period from the 23rd of December through to the 2nd of January is the peak of the holiday season, and you will notice it in both flight prices and accommodation availability. Flights get particularly busy just before Christmas, as Portuguese people living abroad return home to celebrate with their families, and again around the 1st to 3rd of January as they head back. If you are travelling during this window, booking ahead is essential.

Lisbon’s Christmas tree in the Praça do Comércio plaza

The Bolo Rei – The traditional Portuguese Christmas cake

If you are deciding between Lisbon and Porto for a December trip, my recommendation is Lisbon. The weather is better, there is more to do if the skies turn grey, and the Christmas markets are bigger and more varied.

On the weather front, Lisbon typically enjoys milder and drier conditions in December, with daytime highs of around 16°C (61°F). Porto, being further north, tends to be cooler and wetter, with average highs of about 14°C (57°F). It is not a dramatic difference, but it does add up over the course of a week.

That said, poor weather can always catch you out in December wherever you are in Portugal, and this is where Lisbon has a clear advantage. The city has a fantastic range of indoor sights and activities to fall back on, including the Gulbenkian Museum, LxFactory, Jerónimos Monastery, the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, and the Museu Nacional dos Coches. If you are travelling with children, the Oceanário de Lisboa and the Pavilhão do Conhecimento (Pavilion of Knowledge) are both excellent options.

Lisbon also has the edge when it comes to the festive atmosphere, with more and larger Christmas markets than Porto during the build-up to Christmas.

Porto is by no means a bad choice in December, and it can be a wonderful destination when the weather is good. This is exactly why I keep coming back to the same advice: keep your plans flexible, and be ready to make the most of whatever the weather brings.
Related articles: Lisbon guide – Porto guide

If you are travelling with young children, or you have the flexibility to holiday outside of school term times, the Algarve in December can be a wonderful choice for a family trip. The temperatures are mild and comfortable without the punishing heat of summer, and you will often find some genuinely good deals on accommodation. Just bear in mind that some summer services and activities may not be running during the winter months.
Here are the family-friendly resorts I would recommend:

Pestana Blue Alvor - An all-inclusive resort with kids' clubs and multiple pools. Activities run year-round, so there is something to keep every age group entertained..
Jupiter Albufeira Hotel - A solid family option with spacious rooms and a dedicated family entertainment programme that works well across all seasons.
Pine Cliffs Resort - One of the finest hotel complexes in the Algarve, this clifftop resort has family suites, children's clubs, and direct beach access. It is a particularly special setting.
Aquashow Park Hotel - A hotel complex attached to a water park, which is a big draw for children. Usefully, there is an indoor pool area that operates through the winter months.
Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa - A luxury resort that manages to cater beautifully to both adults and families, with pools and a varied entertainment programme that keeps everyone happy.
Grande Real Santa Eulália Resort - A beachfront resort with kids' clubs and a good range of dining options, making it a relaxed and reliable choice for families throughout the year.

In winter, snow settles over the Serra da Estrela mountains, and if you fancy something a little different, there is a ski resort at Torre, the highest point in Portugal at 1,997 metres. It is a small setup with 5.9km of slopes and 3 chairlifts, so it is certainly not going to rival the Alps. But if you are already based in Portugal and looking for a fun day out, it is well worth the trip. For more information and current prices, visit the Serra da Estrela skiing website: https://www.skiserradaestrela.com/

While Portugal has plenty to offer in December, there are a couple of areas I would steer you away from.

The Douro Valley can be extremely wet in December. You may well come across some tempting deals on river cruises, but the potentially miserable weather can take the shine off the experience, and the valley is far better appreciated at other times of year.

The northern coastal towns, particularly those north of Costa Nova and Aveiro, are best avoided too. Strong winds and rain are common, most establishments close up for winter, and many of these Atlantic towns can feel quite bleak and forlorn at this time of year. Save them for a warmer month when they are at their best.

The Algarve is a fantastic destination in December, as long as you go in with the right expectations. The resort towns will be very quiet, and the weather, while pleasant, is not warm enough for sunbathing. Accept that going in, and you will have a genuinely enjoyable trip.

My advice is to base yourself in one of the larger resort towns such as Albufeira, Lagos, or Vilamoura, all of which have sizeable permanent populations and a decent selection of restaurants and bars open year-round. If you want to soak up a bit of authentic Portuguese culture during your stay, the charming town of Tavira makes a wonderful base, or you could factor in a day trip to Faro or Silves.

December is also the best time to find a bargain in the Algarve. If you search the hotel comparison websites, you can find last-minute five-star luxury for the price of three-star mediocrity, which is one of the real pleasures of travelling in low season. I would also strongly recommend hiring a car so that you can explore the wider region freely, rather than finding yourself tied to a quiet hotel complex or a sleepy town centre.

The western Algarve has lively resort towns and golden cliffs

The western Algarve is particularly worth exploring, with its lively resort towns, dramatic golden cliffs, and a great surf scene. December is very much surfing season out here, and Sagres in particular has a wonderful laid-back surf vibe along with some truly spectacular beaches.

For activities, there is more to do than you might expect. Hiking along the Percurso dos Sete Vales Suspensos trail is a lovely way to spend a morning, and when the seas are calm, boat tours from Albufeira or Vilamoura are well worth joining. The quiet roads around Burgau and Tavira are also ideal for cycling at this time of year.

December is a popular season for golfing holidays in the Algarve. It offers bright, dry weather without the intense summer heat, and December is also much cheaper for golf than in September and October when prices are at their highest. Vilamoura is a great base for a golfing holiday.

Lisbon is one of my favourite European city break destinations in December, and the sheer variety the city offers is a big part of why. Whatever the weather throws at you, there is always something wonderful to do, which makes it a particularly smart choice for a winter trip.

If the sun makes an appearance, jump on the train to the magical town of Sintra, with its fairytale Pena Palace and the ruins of the Moors castle. On warmer days, the characterful resort town of Cascais or the traditional beach town of Sesimbra are both well worth the trip out.

If the sun shines head to the Pena Palace, which is magical with few tourists about

If the weather turns, Lisbon has you well covered. The oceanarium is a genuine delight, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is breathtaking even on a grey day, and the Calouste Gulbenkian is one of the finest art museums in Europe. For a full rainy day itinerary, I would suggest heading to the artisan quarter of LX Factory, working your way through Portugal's finest foods at the Time Out Market, and rounding off the evening in the lively bars of the Bairro Alto district.

One of the real joys of visiting Lisbon in December is the lack of crowds. The main tourist attractions are almost deserted compared to summer, so you can explore at your own pace and actually take things in rather than shuffling through with everyone else.
Related articles: Our Lisbon guide

Porto in December is, to be honest, a bit of a gamble. The weather can be genuinely lovely, but it can also be very wet, and unlike Lisbon, the city has fewer indoor activities and sights to fall back on if the rain sets in. That said, there is one rather enjoyable consolation: the Port wine cellars that line the banks of the Douro River. With over 14 different cellars to choose from, a rainy day in Porto can still be a very pleasant one.

If the weather is dry, a day trip to the pretty city of Guimarães or the grand religious centre of Braga. And if the sun comes out, hiring a car and heading into the Douro Valley is one of the great Portuguese experiences.

My honest advice: if you are considering Porto in December, leave your planning to the last minute. Keep an eye on the long-term weather forecast, and let that guide your decision. If it looks wet, head to Lisbon or the Algarve instead. If it looks dry, go ahead and book. You will almost certainly pick up a great deal, and Porto in winter sunshine is a real treat.
Related articles: Porto guide

The Ponte Luís I in Porto, crossing the Douro River